Nob Hill Neighborhood Guide

Here’s looking at you, Marrakesh. After all, I don’t have to go all the way to Casa Blanca for Moroccan food, now do I? Right around the corner since 1989, Marrakesh has been dishing up traditional ingredients such as lamb, couscous, eggplant, and chicken with (they-had-me-at) olives. Frankly, this particular little ingest-a-maniac brakes for olives. So that last little number happens to be the top fave. A friend of mine has seemingly staked a claim in the lamb couscous. Don’t even think about wedging yourself between her and the plate. I’m sure fellow diners have lost digits for less.

If you’re looking for white linens, wine stewards, and candles, you’re obviously not trying to visit North Africa. But if you like to sate an appetite now and then for communal hand-washing, eschewing silverware and sharing baskets of homemade bread with the rest of the patrons, you might want to pull up an ottoman on the floor of Marrakesh.

An a la carte menu is available on weekdays, but the way to do Marrakesh is to take advantage of their five-course meal at $17.50 per head. This particular culinary tour starts with a yummy lentil soup that is not served with a spoon. (I know, sounds like a riddle, huh? Answer: you drink it. Duh.) Soup is followed by a salad called Zaalouk, which actually looks a lot more like a dip. Made of a near puree of eggplant and carrot, with cucumber, tomato, celery, and spices, this is where that homemade bread comes in especially handy to sop it all up. Contrasts come together in the Pastilla, which is a sweet and savory mixture of shredded chicken, crushed almonds, and eggs nestled inside phyllo dough with powdered sugar and cinnamon on top. All this is followed by your entrée of choice, a dessert of either a pudding with hints of rose water called Mahalabia or perhaps a small fruit salad. Topping it all off is fresh mint tea that the server pours from a great distance above your glass.

One Word of Warning: take care when trying to make your way to the restroom. I personally have not experienced a fall or so much as witnessed one, but I cringe every time I see a patron head that way. Directions are to take a right through the door at the back of one of the dining rooms, but, if you happen not to be looking, you could miss the fact that IMMEDIATELY on your right is a long flight of stairs, down which you could take a tumble. My advice to the staff is to do whatever it takes to make customers aware of this.

And of course, what night at Marrakesh wouldn't be complete without...bellydancing!

Marrakesh

1201 NW 21st Avenue

Portland, OR 97209

(503) 248-9442

They say that chocolate can cure depression, and coffee can take care of a headache. So who needs an apothecary when you can have a 24-hour coffee/sandwich/ice cream shop instead?

For the last 100 years, the Nob Hill Pharmacy was dispensing remedies the old fashioned way. But less than two years ago, the iconic institution immortalized in Gus Van Sant’s Drugstore Cowboy was transformed into a 24/7 pit stop, fueling everyone from students cramming for credits to the pre-hangover crowd with all day and all night relief for whatever ails – as long as the diagnosis isn’t anything more critical than a chronic case of the munchies.

Nob Hill Old Pharmacy Café

2100 NW Glisan

Portland, OR 97210

(503) 548-4049

So normally this website, which is clearly devoted to each intrinsically interesting neighborhood, doesn’t really do the corporate chain thing. After all, the suits can buy all the word of mouth they need, and, with the record pace with which they can co-opt a community, their mission statement seems to be, “Neighborhood Schmeighborhood.”

Have to say though, when it comes to Schmizza, they’re a welcome exception. First of all, their “world headquarters” is located in nearby Hillsboro, so they kinda come by that weird thing naturally. Their pizza actually is tasty, and they franchise to local owners who have latitude in how they run their shop.

Owners of the Schmizza on 21st, Joel and Sarah Patterson have put their own unique stamp on the operation. They made sure that a pool table was part of the atmosphere since little pizza eaters don’t have many options to play in the area. They kept the wall art comprised of several mounted, computer keyboards from the previous owners and allow those same said little pizza eaters to go interactive with it if it suits their fancy.

And perhaps most importantly, understanding that the whole pizza equation adds up to a big zero without beer, they offer a tap that spotlights a small brewery called Off the Rail Brewing that – like Joel and Sarah’s venture – is locally owned by couple, Daniel and Antionette Bragdon. The beer clocks in at a reasonable buck to buck-fifty if you’re chewing on a slice – so yet another beautiful marriage is honored.

Pizza Schmizza

320 NW 21st Avenue

Portland, OR 97209

(503) 445-7770

www.schmizza.com

Being born and raised in Tucson, Arizona prepares one for a few things in life: endless dry skin therapy, chronic disappointment in sunsets anywhere else, and knowing the flavors of Mexico instantly when they cross your tongue.

So, when a spoonful of tortilla soup takes over my every ounce of concentration, rattling me with its flavors, and nearly bringing tears to my eye in its recollection because it reminds me of my childhood home – I think I can safely say that the soup is a taste of Mexico in itself.

The décor is Mexico as well. What that means is, instead of planting relics around the joint like little men with huge sombreros that speak much more to American ethnocentrism than an authentic cultural peek, Taste of Mexico went for what absolutely screams Mexican – color.

The vibrancy of Mexico has always been strongly communicated through color.It’s their signature, plain and simple. And the approach here is simple, just a few napkins cleverly placed, even around the water pitchers. But the effect is unmistakable. When you walk through the door at Taste of Mexico, you know instantly where you are. And frankly, I will be going back for the tour.

Taste of Mexico

716 NW 21st Avenue

Portland, OR 97209

(503) 295-4944

One of the six establishments that will be highlighted in the upcoming Food Network Awards 2007, Ken’s Artisan Pizza has its sister baking operation located on 21st.  And at Ken’s Artisan Bakery, they apparently do all things bread and pastries: canneles, maccarons, biscotti, quiche, brioche, baguettes, ciabatta, you name it.  And on Monday nights, guess what – Pizza!

Ken’s Artisan Bakery

338 NW 21st Avenue

Portland, Or 97209

(503) 248-2202

www.kensartisan.com

As one of seven distinct venues owned by Concept Entertainment Group (C.E.G.,) Gypsy Restaurant & Velvet Lounge has it all: dining, drinking, pool, video games, televisions everywhere.  Having been here and one other venue belonging to C.E.G. called The Lotus, the theme seems to be lowbrow barfly meets the sports’ crowd meets dishes that sound like Smoked Salmon with Cucumber Squares and Steak and Bleu Cheese Pinwheels.

Like a smorgasbord of amenities, C.E.G.’s locations have hosted the office parties of such local high-profiles as Nike, Wieden & Kennedy, and the Trail Blazers, so the seed factor of the joints is planted only as deeply as you care to dig.

Gypsy Restaurant & Velvet Lounge

625 NW 21st Avenue

Portland, OR 97209

(503) 796-1859

The caption under the gorgeous sign above the door reads, “big world diner.”  And the aim here definitely does appear to be round-the-world.  They’ve got your Cajun, and they’ve got your Szechuan.  Italian?  Of course.  Mexican, Jamaican - heck, even a French sounding chicken and brie sandwich. 

Is the world represented well though, you ask?  All I can say is I walked in to snap a few photos at 2:30 on a Tuesday afternoon and was met by a buzz.  (So shocked was I by the number of people present and their fun demeanor that I actually stopped to check my watch.)  Screaming local hangout, MUU-MUU’s appears to be the kind of place, “where everybody knows your name,” a Norm-haven if you will.  In fact, the very first person I came across sitting at the bar was the artist who made the fabulous sign out front.  Perhaps it really is a small world after all.

MUU-MUUs

612 NW 21st Avenue

Portland, OR

(503) 223-8169

Portland, OR 97209

(503) 248-9442

Hear no evil. See no evil. Speak no evil. DO NO WRONG! Destination shopping at its finest, 3 Monkeys is the kind of store you take out of town company to visit. It’s part garage sale, part high-end boutique. It’s “Rock Star Apparel,” and it’s vintage accoutrements. It’s purses strewn up the stairway and monkeys in the window. It’s beautiful skirts, blouses, and bags – and estate sale menagerie. Simply, it’s an extended stay if you let it. 

A certain educated guess tells me that the three monkeys of the store are more than just a cute motif. Before a customer ever walks through the door, a static monkey clearly warns, “Don’t look.” ‘Cause even a lower primate would know that there’s not much chance of walking out of this wonderful shop without finding something that grabs the eye.

3 Monkeys

811 NW 23rd Avenue

Portland, OR 97210

(503) 222-5160

So what’s Blake? Well, if you ask its namesake proprietor, Blake will tell you that Blake is all about the denim. Literally. Okay, come on, Blake’s not a madman. Of course, he’s got shirts, sweaters, sweatshirts and the like to go with the denim. But denim is the focus. Denim is the business.

Showcasing 42 different brands of denim in one store, Blake boasts the largest selection in Oregon. And in case you think you’ve got one of those figures that doesn’t contour well in a pair of jeans, might wanna stroll into the store that’s got the street rep for being able to denim any derrière.

Blake

2285 NW Johnson Street (at NW 23rd)

Portland, OR 97210

(503) 222-4848

www.loveblake.com

Know that droopy, dry skin that your Aunt Mildred on your grandmom’s side used to scratch across your nascent cheek during a hug? Sure you do – ‘cause that’s what’s been greeting you in the mirror each morning for a couple good years now of your aging denial. Well, don’t waste time berating yourself for what it took generations to wreak upon you.

Providing solutions since 1851, Kiehl’s offers their own generations of combined experience in cosmetic, pharmaceutical, herbal, and medicinal knowledge to work with your particular family’s legacy of hair, face, and body needs. With an extensive product catalog that reads like a menu - complete with ingredients like avocadoes, apricot kernels, and almonds – Kiehl’s offers everything from firming cream to diaper rash ointment, minding the gap so-to-speak.

Kiehl's

712 NW 23rd

Portland, OR 97210

(503) 223-7676

www.kiehls.com

Ever get drawn into a shop by the stunning array of color that greets you at the door? Now how many of those shops sold dishes? Sure, you might have been pulled into a little boutique by its rainbow of clothes.&A gift shop perhaps. Party supplies maybe. But dishes? My guess is not likely unless you’ve happened by Mamma Ro.

The sole United States’ distributor for the Mamma Ro brand of Italian handmade tabletop ceramics and home accessories, the Mamma Ro store on NW 23rd is a dazzling table setting for hundreds. So beautiful is the showroom that its catalog is divided by color. And so extensive is the line of products that there is a category just for rectangular service.

Along with its outlet operation on NW Upshur, this locally owned shop/importer distributes to approximately 250 retail stores across America.

Mamma Ro

940 NW 23rd

Portland, OR 97210

(503) 241-4960

Mamma Ro Premium Outlet

1801 NW Upshur Street, #100

Portland, OR 97209

(503) 274-0687

www.mammaro.us

Finally an excuse to go to The Powder Room together. After all, how many places claim to offer “Guilt Free Shopping?” On the basement level of one of those adorable storefront houses that Nob Hill is just crazy with is a boutique that offers high fashion at inexpensive prices. Owned by Janine Schroeder, along with Cindy Speare who runs the sister operation in Seattle, The Powder Room offers 20 years of retail experience between the sites.

So what happens if you don’t happen to have someone to accompany you to The Powder Room? Don’t worry, Janine is apt to fill those shoes if you’d like her to. On the day I visited, she watched me try on hats, offering advice, even going so far as to tell me when one wasn’t exactly the right match. Wow! That’s a proprietor who knows that a successful business isn’t just about the sale. It’s about the trust. “Guilt Free Shopping” at its finest.

The Powder Room

814 NW 23rd

Portland, OR 97210

(503) 248-9160

Establishing a bike shop in Portland is like letting a fox loose in a hen house. No brainer – both will have a heyday.

I’m sure greater minds than mine have tried to figure out the phenomenon that is Portland’s biking scene. Go figure. The same home to one of the largest beer cultures on the planet is also home to one the largest bike cultures.Or perhaps those two seemingly independent facts are more related than we think. Either way, what can we say? We’re a big enough city to contain contradiction. And we’re a big enough city to welcome another bike store. In fact, as I type, tires are probably skidding to a stop to check this place out.

Providing sales, service, and repair, the shop’s owners believe the primary market will be commuters. However, as “the neighborhood bike shop” they intend to be, this 8 week-old enterprise won’t even get a chance to crawl before it’s off to the races.

21st Avenue Bicycles

916 NW 21st Avenue

Portland, OR 97209

(503) 222-2851

www.21stbikes.com

A clever co-op of independent owners who each specializes in his or her own niche market, City Market combines the talents and expertise of these individual enterprises under one roof.  The effect for the consumer is a one-stop, high-quality visit to the neighborhood market.

And even The Food Network is taking notice.Viande Meats and Sausage Company, one of the participants in City Market NW, was spotlighted when The Food Network Awards 2007 bestowed upon Portland the title of one of the hottest food scenes in America. (Like we didn’t know that, right? But it’s nice to be appreciated.)

Dedicated to the “time-honored traditions of the neighborhood butcher shop,” Viande’s notoriety is now going national.

But did chef/co-owner Ben Dyer flash that in my face when I asked him what he thought should be emphasized about his operation? No way!I had gathered that little intel on my own. Nope, what Ben wanted me to know is that Viande is all about the meat. They work everything from scratch including curing their own Prosciutto, Pancetta, and Guanciale and making at least a dozen different varieties of fresh sausage daily.

Just goes to show you, big things happen when you truly have it for your hood.

City Market NW

735 NW 21st Avenue

Portland, OR 97209

(503) 221-3007

As the name implies, Stella’s on 21st definitely tries to distance itself from the competition two blocks away. The explicit intention of owners Robyn Craig and Nancy Goodwin is to be “funkier” than 23rd while trying to keep prices low, ever mindful to keep the price point fair.

Much of the inventory is local. Some is consignment. And eclectic and colorful are the mandates. A kitchen sink store (as in everything but,) Stella’s on 21st has everything from arbors to art, and that’s just the A’s! Known as a gifting shop, Stella’s on 21st not only has the aforementioned wide variety of gift ideas but has the card to go with it and will wrap for free. It’s like the warm feeling you get when batteries are included. No muss, no fuss, and no eleven dollar gift bag.

Stella’s on 21st

1108 NW 21st Avenue

Portland, OR 97209

(503) 295-5930

www.stellason21st.com

Ice Cube certainly wasn’t the first to notice that a barbershop can be a place to treasure. Perhaps it is in the act of shearing that we are also motivated to slough off some of our protective layers and reveal something fresh and new to those within the hallowed confines of the shop. Who knows, maybe it’s just the discomfort of having some guy’s armpit in your face while he clips away that causes the sudden inspiration to have something to talk about. Either way, stuff gets said. An affinity for a place gets built. And the business lasts. That’s if you’re doing something right, which I can only assume must be the case at a barbershop that’s been around since Calvin Coolidge was president.

Though the original sign out front proclaims the establishment is still owned by Bert, for the last 25 years of its history it has belonged to Mary Lee Perry. A responsible steward of the operation, Mary Lee has done the smart thing and, for the most part, not touched a hair on this establishment’s head. So, when a patron sits down to have a do, he is sitting in the very same chair that generations before him received everything from a Gatsby to a Lennon to a mullet. The deco-esque wooden cabinetry at each barber station goes back to the ‘20’s, as do the mirrors. Even several ointments and aftershaves from the ghosts of inventories past – items Mary Lee inherited with the joint – are preserved and showcased here to allow the full experience of stepping back in time for a contemporary cut.

Roughcut Barbershop

513 NW 21st Avenue

Portland, OR 97209

(503) 227-7518